Arno River and Ponte Vecchio

Ponte Vecchio and the Arno River (Florence)

Florence – (June 2015)

An easy, quiet, and peaceful train ride from Milan.

Florence, the capital city of the Tuscany region, is one of the most visited cities in the world.  It is also dubbed as the “cradle of the Renaissance” due to all the monuments, churches, and buildings.

After a two hour train ride, I arrived at the railway station “Firenze Santa Maria Novella“. I really enjoyed the railways in Europe. From the station it was a quick taxi ride to my Airbnb rental, which was is in a great location.

Firenze Santa Maria Novella
Firenze Santa Maria Novella Rail Station (Picture borrowed from internet)

Strolling through the narrow streets I came across a celebration.

DSC02550 (2)
Calcio Storico Fiorentino Pre-game Parade

dsc02557

dsc02554-2

At the time,  I had no idea what was going on.

dsc02560

As you can see, they were dressed up for the 16th Century time period.

dsc02568

I ran into the same celebration the following day.

dsc02556

I researched the celebration that evening, only to find out that I missed the main event each night. Each one of the parades were just the start up for that evening. They march throughout the city, ending up over at the plaza in front of Santa Croce.

dsc02572-2

A temporary stadium was set up in the plaza for the Calcio Storico Fiorentino, a sporting event that looks like a combination of soccer, rugby, and a wrestling match consisting of four teams from the historical neighborhoods. It is part of the celebration for the patron saint, St. John the Baptist. The game originates from the 16th century. The four teams were the Santa Croce (blue), Santo Spirito (white), Santa Maria Novella (red), and the San Giovanni (green). I am sorry I missed seeing this contest. Something tells me it was quite physical.

dsc02553

Teams train for eight or nine months, with teams training several times a week over the course of the last months leading up to the tournament. These were the semi-final parades, with the championship to be played on June 24th.

dsc02551

One might ask, what does the victor win? In the old days, the winning team/district received a Palio and a Chianina ox.  So where’s the beef? Well in this case, here is the beef, as the ox was the menu for neighborhood parties celebrating the victory.

dsc02563
Now a days, the ox is rented for a day, and just part of the parade.

The “Arno” River flows through Florence. The photo below is the Ponte Vecchio, a bridge full of jewelry and art stores.

dsc02721

On a historic note, this was the only bridge that wasn’t destroyed by the Germans towards the end of World War II.

dsc02633-2
Ponte Vecchio and Arno River

I walked around that evening getting my barrings, locating the train station from my flat, purchasing a ticket to go to Pisa in a few days.  As it turned out, it was a Regional train to Pisa, and all I had to do was show my Eurail Pass. The hard part was getting someone to explain that to me. The train station ticket representative didn’t speak a word of English except NO, and had no patience for me.

I decided to head out to the Piazzale Michelangelo. Passing through the Porta San Miniato, one of the many gates of Florence.

DSC02574
Porta San Miniato

It was a nice trek of approximately 4.5 miles to the plaza.

DSC02584 (2)

There where great views along the way to the plaza.

DSC02587 (2)

Looking away from the city – Arno River.

DSC02596

Part of the ancient city outer wall

DSC02588

Continuing on, I worked my way up to the Basilica San Miniato al Monte, said to be one of the finest Romanesque structures in Tuscany.

DSC02590
Inside Basilica

The build of the Basalica started around 1018 and continued for two centuries.  As you can see, there is a choir platform sitting above the large crypt, which has changed very little over the years.  Above that, a mosaic of Christ, between the Virgin and St Minias, which was made around 1297. The pattern flooring dates back to 1207.

DSC02591
Ceiling of Basilica

The ceiling was quite different as well.  Great pattern and design with each compartment providing a kind of firebreak.

Coming down a different route I came upon the Tower “Porta San Niccolo”. It didn’t appear to be opened to the public.

DSC02597
Porta San Niccolo – First erected in 1324

DSC02601

DSC02602
Part of the Fontane delle Rampe del Poggi at Palazzo Poggi next to Porta San Niccolo.  Sometimes water is flowing down inside the chambers. Recently restored in 2019.
DSC02604
Arno River and the Porta San Niccolo

After my walk in the hills, I walked around town setting the plans for the upcoming days:  The Florence Cathedral, Brunelleschi’s Dome, Giotto’s Bell Tower, Palazzo Vecchio,  and the Uffizi Gallery were a few of my stops planned.

The Cathedral of Florence, formally know as Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore,  is one of the main attractions of Florence.

DSC02616
Cathedral of Florence

The build started in 1296, with the first stone being laid by Cardinal Valeriana on 9 September 1296. Arnolfo di Cambio was the designer. The build completion was in 1436, going through many architects over the course of of 140 years.

DSC02614
Side view with Brunelleschi’s Dome

I chose to climb Giotto’s Campanile (Bell Tower) first.

DSC02610
The Cathedral of Florence (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore) with Giotto’s Bell Tower to the right.  You can see a small piece of Brunelleschi’s Dome between the two.

Giotto di Bondone designed the Bell Tower with the 1st stone being laid on 19 July 1334.  The tower was completed in 1359.

DSC02636 (2)
A view of the Brunelleschi’s Dome on my climb to the top of Giotto’s Campanile
DSC02637
Basilica of Santa Croce viewed from Bell Tower
DSC02638
Florence with the Tower of Arnolfo in the distance
DSC02640
Another view, from the top, looking down and across at the Brunelleschi’s Dome. You can see people out at the top of the Dome.

Climbing to the top of the Bell Tower, you will encounter 414 steps.

DSC02641
Walking around the top of the Bell Tower.

Next I headed into the Cathedral of Florence (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore).

DSC02645

DSC02649

Looking up the inside of the dome from the church floor was a good view of the Last Judgement Fresco Cycle by Giorgio Vasari. After Vasari passed away in 1574, the projects was completed by Federico Zuccaro.

DSC02651
Last Judgement Fresco Cycle

The Dome was designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. It was built over the period of time from 1420 to 1436. At the time it was the largest dome in the world. This in itself created design problems, preventing the traditional method of construction due to its size. The open space in the cathedral measured 42 meters wide. They could not build the dome with “centring” (framing used to support an arch or dome while it is under construction.). Its structure is a double shell, reinforced by 24 vertical arched ribs connecting the inner and outer dome. For the build Brunelleschi created a three-speed hoist powered by a one yoke of oxen, and a 65 foot crane that allowed loads to move from side to side once they were at the height desired.

Off to the top of Brunelleschi’s Dome!

There was a line for going up to the top of the Dome. They control the number of people going up and down, which is good as the stairwells are not very big! In the line I hit up a conversation with a couple from the UK that were taking a 2-3 week drive around Europe in a small RV, camping as they went along. They were enjoying themselves! The man in front of me was from Turkey, very nice, and he joined in on the conversation. Everyone was truly enjoying the sites.

Once in, the trek began.

DSC02654
Part of the Last Judgement Fresco Cycle
DSC02655
Part of the Last Judgement Fresco Cycle

These last two pictures were taken from the base of the drum where there is a little walkway just below the fresco.

Made it to the top!  Views from the top of Brunelleschi’s Dome.

DSC02658
Panoramic from the top of Brunelleschi’s Dome
DSC02659
Good shot of the Giotto’s Bell Tower from the top of the Brunelleschi’s Dome. You can see the people walking around the top of it.

FYI – encountered 463 steps on the way up.

Once I was back on the ground, I let my feet do the talking.  I ended up over at the Piazza della Repubblica.  Once the Piazza del Mercato Vecchio.  In the mid-18th century, this area had tightly packed streets, buildings (churches, shrines), and a ghetto, in addition to the marketplace.  The current square looks nothing like that.  Florence became the capital of Italy for 5 years (1865-1871), and during that time the city planning announced the changes to come. Towards the end of the 1800’s, the square was expanded destroying medieval towers, churches, palaces, craftsmen’s shops and residences. The city presented to the people of Florence that the demolition of the area was necessary due to the area’s unsanitary conditions.

DSC02665
The Column of Abundance in the Piazza della Repubblica

The Colonna dell’Abbondanza (Column of Abundance) marked the center of Roman Florence.  It was located at the intersection of the Cardo (North-South) and
Decumanus Maximus (East-West) Roman roads. The monument was erected in the 15th century. At that time, the area was a market. The statue had two chains, one used to ring a bell for the opening and closing of the market.  The second chain was used to chain up debtors, thieves, etc. for public shaming.

DSC02666
Picci Family Carousel

This is the Antique 20 horse Carousel of the Picci Family. I believe the Picci family has brought the carousel to the Piazza della Repubblica  for over 100 years. My understanding is that it runs November through May, although when I was there, it was running in June (2015).

Shortly after arriving in the square, a small storm was rolling in.  I was lucky to find a cafe near by, one that I could sit out on the patio, enjoy my meal, and watch the rain.  The Cafe is no longer there, but it was located where the La Bistecca – Osteria Fiorentina currently is. I recognized the patio.

Next I was off to the Piazza della Signoria. There you will find the Fountain of Neptune, the Loggia dei Lanzi, the Palazzo Vecchio, and the Uffizi Gallery.

DSC02618
Fountain of Neptune (1574)
DSC02667
Palazzo Vecchio

Florence decided to build a palace that would be worthy of the city’s importance. The Palazzo Vecchio was completed in 1314, but it wasn’t named this until Cosimo I de Medici moved his residence to the Pitti Palace.

The architect for the Palazzo Vexcchio was Arnolfo di Cambio, who was also the architect of the Cathedral of Florence (Duomo) and the Santa Croce church.

DSC02628
Entrance to the Palazzo Vecchio

The current statue of “David”, standing (on the left) in front of the Palazzo Vecchio, is a replica. Michelangelo’s David was unveiled in 1504. It was originally to be positioned on the roofline of the east end of the Cathedral of Florence.  Michelangelo’s David stood in front of the Palazzo Vecchio until 1873.  It is now at the Galleria dell’Accademia in Florence.

DSC02632
First courtyard

In the First Courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio, you can see the statue Putto with Dolphin, by Verrocchio, in the center of the room.  The walls are frescoes of Austrian cities by Vasari.

DSC02684
The Salone dei Cinquecento (Hall of Five Hundred)

Other pictures of the interior of Palazzo Vecchio:

DSC02687
Hercules and Diomedes, piece of “The Labor of Hercules”, in the Hall of Five Hundred
DSC02686
Hercules and the Erymanthian boar, “The Labors of Hercules”

DSC02689

DSC02693
Apartments of Eleonora-Furnishings: Madonna and Child with Young Saint John; Head of Apollo
DSC02698
The Cappella dei Priori (Chapel of the Priors) also called Cappella della Signoria
DSC02699
Sala dell’Udienza – The Audience Chamber or Hall of Justice

On the second floor you will find The Stanza del Guardaroba, also known as the Hall of Geographical Maps.  All four walls are covered with maps, 53 to be exact, painted on the cabinet doors. In the center of the room is the “Mappi Mundi” built in 1581.

DSC02703
Mappi Mundi

While at the Palazzo Vecchio, I found there was an archaeological dig underneath the Palazzo Vecchio. The excavation uncovered the Roman Theater of Florence dating back to 1st century AD.  The first excavation remains were found in 1876, with another dig in 1935.  Excavations started back up in 2006-2007.  This amphitheater was in a semicircular shape estimated to of held up to 15,000 spectators. Research indicates it was in use into the 5th century.

Excavations have revealed wall foundations,

DSC02669

and 10-meter deep well shafts,

DSC02671

DSC02672

DSC02674 Back outside in the Piazza della Signoria, I stepped over to the Loggia dei Lanzi, also called the Loggia della Signoria.

DSC02630
Marble Statutory at the Loggia della Signoria

Here you will find many masterful sculptures.

DSC02619
Perseus holding the severed head of Medusa
DSC02620
The Rape of Polyxena
DSC02622
Hercules and Nessus (1599), Florence

The Loggia della Signoria is adjoined to the Uffizi Gallery.

The Uffizi Gallery has been open for visits since the 16th century. In 1865 it formally became a museum. It is considered one of the most important Italian museums, and probably the most visited.

DSC02723
To the left – Statue of Apollo : Bottom right – Statue of Cane Molosso
DSC02743 (2)
The monumental Laocoon Group, also called Laocoon and His Sons, by Baccio Bandinelli.         The red stain discoloration is the result of a fire back in 1762.
DSC02729
Birth of Venus

DSC02733

DSC02738
The Sleeping Ariadne, a III century Roman copy from a Greek original.
DSC02746
Medusa – Painted by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, depicting the exact moment she was executed by Perseus (1597)

The next day I went to the Basilica Santa Maria Novella. A beautiful church.

DSC02747
Basilica Santa Maria Novella
DSC02750
Nave with the Crucifix of Giotto
DSC02759
Tornabuoni Chapel
Frescoes by Domenico Ghirlandaio

While the Tornabuoni Chapel is the main chapel, there are 8 other chapels.

DSC02758
Strozzi Chapel
Frescoes by Filippino Lippi
DSC02760
Cloister of the Dead
DSC02763
Reliquary of the Thorns, the Robe, and Purple Cloth of Christ – crafted by a Florentine goldsmith in 1622 AD.

Other sites I ran across walking around Florence, dodging the rain.

DSC02712
The Great Synagogue of Florence or Tempio Maggiore
DSC02714
Equestrian Monument of Ferdinando I (1608) – Piazza of the Annunziata.
DSC02716
Also in the Piazza of the Annunziata, two mannerist fountains with marine gargoyles.
DSC02764
Basilica di Santa Croce (Basilica of the Holy Cross)

The church was closed. To the right,you can see the edge of the seating for the Calcio Storico Fiorentino, the sporting event noted in the start of the blog.

Florence was very interesting. A lot to see, and once again, I didn’t come close to seeing everything, but I enjoyed myself.  Next stop, Pisa!

One thought on “Ponte Vecchio and the Arno River (Florence)”

  1. This has been the most fantastic post on Florence I’ve read in a long time . Your photos are gorgeous and you captured Firenze’s essence so well. The parade was a colourful surprise and I didn’t know the carousel was an antique . Thanks to you, I had a peek inside Santa Maria Novella (there just wasn’t enough time even though it was right there ), Uffizi , Palazzo Vecchio and even the view from the top of the the Duomo. Sigh! Now I feel I barely scratched the surface of this fabulous city but just for this moment, your post took me right back to Florence.

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s